Sunset silhouettes at U Bein teak bridge, Mandalay
Mandalay, Myanmar

We think it is worth taking the "Road to Mandalay"

We will be honest, quite a few people told us not to bother with Mandalay.

"Skip it," they said. "Not much there."

We decided to go anyway, as it was the starting point for our journey down the Irrawaddy River.

We stayed at the Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel, located at the base of Mandalay Hill. Although quite a big hotel (which we normally try to avoid) it was a good choice, a nice pool, lovely grounds to explore and a pretty spa, accessed via stepping stones on a lily pond. We treated ourselves to pedicures, which I would definitely recommend. Happy hour in the Kipling bar started our evening in style, followed by dinner and a traditional Burmese show, which completely immersed us in the culture of this amazing country.

Stepping stones across a lily pond at the spa gardens
The lily-pond stepping stones at the Mandalay Hill Resort spa.

Mandalay Hill and a football-fuelled Tuk Tuk ride

In the morning on the next day one of the first surprises was Mandalay Hill. We got a Tuk Tuk most of the way up, so only had the final stretch to climb, definitely the right call. The driver didn't speak a lot of English, but between us we managed, fuelled by football chat, which, as anyone who has travelled in Asia knows, is pretty much a global language. He was a Manchester United supporter… much to Tony's disappointment as a Spurs fan.

Mandalay Hill is a well-known pilgrimage site. It is said that Buddha himself once visited and made a prophecy about the creation of Mandalay, which gives it an extra layer of magic and makes the climb feel slightly more worthwhile. Once at the top, there is even a lift to the absolute summit. Surrounded by Buddha shrines, the view really delivers, stretching right across the city, with the distinctive red canal cutting through below. This would provide an amazing vista to watch a sunset!

View from Mandalay Hill over golden stupas and the city
The view from the top of Mandalay Hill.

Sunset at U Bein Bridge

Then there was the sunset visit to the U Bein teak bridge. We took a taxi to the entrance and then you walk through the food markets to get there, busy, chaotic and full of things you may or may not feel brave enough to try, including fried cockroaches if you're up for it.

The bridge itself wasn't what we had imagined. We had something more glamorous and beautiful in mind, but what you actually get is a long, slightly rickety wooden structure, made special by the sunset and the atmosphere around it. With silhouettes stretching across the water and the sound of people singing from the boats below, we experienced something we will remember forever, that raw charm.

Wooden boats at dusk near U Bein Bridge
The singers' boats waiting on the water at sunset.

In summary

Mandalay turned out to be far more interesting than we had been led to expect and absolutely worth a night or two on any travel plan.

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